298 Ulan Uday staying in a Yurt Saturday - arrived in UU the capital of the independent Republic of Buryatiya. So mixed with the white Russians were many Mongol looking Buryats. Though as I found in CIS most of the city areas are Russia culture dominated; I wish I had gone into the countryside. I walked around town trying to contact Petr (turns out the numbers were wrong). At the Buryat national Museum I met Ayuna and I jumped at the chance to stay in her Yurt.

Ayuna's Yurt 3

Ayuna's Yurt 2

Ayuna's Yurt

Camerashy Tania
Actually turned out, since the soviets Buryat don't actually stay in yurts ,her's had been brought from Mongolia. Whilst I looked for a place to phone Petr I bumped into Tania working in the Travel Agents. She took me across the road to the Buryat Bhuddist temple to samle the traditional food called Pozi, which is actually the same as the typical Chinese meat dumpling called mandu. And with her help I was able to meet up with Petr and his friends in some European-like cafe bars. It was interesting to talk to Petr and meet Carl a Rotary exchange student from New York State, who'd been living in UU 9 months.

Sunday - First we went back to the museum as it was the public opening of an exhibition by a now superfamous Buryat jeweller and artist. Then I met up with Tania to tour the nearby wooden building museum. Actually it's interesting to see that in the centre of town there are so many old wooden buildings preserved. Usually these are in a bad state of repair and poor people live in them. Of course in a capitalist country the pressure of city centre high land values would have meant they would have been torn down years ago to make space for new shops or banks. Rain and cold 10C which people said was very cold for summer. So even though the log cabin buildings were nice I didn't take any photos. The settlers and deported people 100-150 years ago built log cabins centred around a brick fireblock, children slept above it. They also built log churches. Meanwhile the Buryat had evolved from the Mongol yurt to a kind of log cabin yurt. There were also other races one of which built tipis like the American Indians.

The next day was the UU anniversary day. In the evening I met up with Petr, Carl and we went to see a free concert, which was so crowded we couldn't get in.

Photos outside 1 Me and Carl 2 Sasha/Petr/Me

Carl introduced me to Kvass populary referred to as the Russian Cocal Cola it's a malt drink like English beer before it ferments sold from barrels on street corners in the mornings .

Monday .. as well as Russian constitution day it was the UU 340th anniversary day. There was a street parade with every company, group, organisation you could think of e.g. local BMX boys. I swear there were more people in the parade than in the crowd.

I could see that modern culture still has large parts of the old Soviet culture in it. It was interesting to see so many people dressed up in traditional Buryat costume, and there was of Buryat singing.


Ulan Ude festival 2

Ulan Ude festival 1



Buying a train ticket is difficult even for Russians, but Petr has a lot of experience so it was much easier for him, so he was a great help. The Monday night train was full and even though one is supposed to register with immigration if you stay more than 3 days in onetown I decided to take a Tuesday night train. It's a pity there are such strong visa regulations in CIS. I had met good people and would have liked to have stayed in town longer, but there was always pressure on me to move on in order to reach the European border before my visa expired.

Tues- It was a rainy day so I stayed most of the day at Ayuna's house. Since the end of during communism everyone had a job and apartment, but since the end of communism peoples salaries are often not enough so they have to find alternative incomes. Ayuna lives with her mother and daughter they get extra money from renting out their apartment in the center of town whilst they live 7Km from the centre in a semi-detached old wood house. They have a garden and satellite TV, but have to get water from the handpump in the street outside. The street is mud not paved. When it stopped raining I said thanks and goodbye to Ayuna and went to walk around the town.

Siberia is mostly empty forest, but UU is suddenly a large city as the soviet government chose to put aeroplane and train factories there. So it's actually pretty big there are endless basic concrete apartment blocks to hose half a million people. Downtown is slowly getting more developed with some new shops etc. One of the benefits of capitalism is that they now have gambling machines in the streets.
I met up with Tania and gave a special guest lecture at her English class. Later Carl, Petr and I went to a Mongolian restaurant. I tried the Mongolian tea with horse milk reputed to be awful which wasn't bad.
If it had not been raining I might have visited the Buryat village of Ivolga. I really regret not doing this. I'm not interested in seeing another temple, but I wanted to see some Buryat culture; as it appears in the town Russian culture dominated Buryat. I had seen Buryat dancing in the parade, but everything else and all school and TV appeared to be in Russian language.

I was lucky enough to meet a lots of kind Russians 3 of which spoke excellent English I think they should start their own Russian Language Homestay school.

notes- Good workcamp coming from UU http://www.availabilityonline.com/vfp/details.asp?campcode=RusCf01-06&begin=6/20/2006&end=6/30/2006 The goal of the camp is to renovate the Bolshoi Chivyrkui Rangers' Station of the Zabaikalsky National Park

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