Heritage Mining Town Sungai Lembing could be conserved by turning it into a university
Sungai Lembing (Old Tin Mine Town) Trip Report

Introduction

- Whilst staying in Kuantan I made the interesting discovery that 40Km away there is a historic mountain valley tin-ming town called Sungai Lembing, now a bit of a ghost town as the main mine closed in 1986. It's not exactly a highland town as it's only at 300m, but the high valley sides and flowing river keep it cooler than Kuantan city. sungai lembing museum

Good Museum

- The Manager's sits splendidly on a hillock inside the valley looking over everything. It has been tastefully turned into a quite reasonable museum of tin-mining and the town.

- There is a pretty good video if you ask, which features extensive footage of 3 ex-workers. They are all Malay although the majority of the workers were Chinese. In fact the town must be 80% Chinese.

- A road leads from just past the museum through a hillside through an area which must have been where the Europeans lived. There are some quite big bungalows all unfortunately abandoned and decaying and maybe some office buildings. Then there are the entrances to the 4 main tunnels, you can go a few metres inside, but after that they are all bricked up.
- Unfortunately there isn't much else to see of the old mine, there were never any winding towers as they were all underground and the remains of the processing area below the tunnels isn't very interesting.

- Other heritage buildings include the old clubhouses at either end of the padang and old style wooden Chinese shophouses lining the main street and villages of old Chinese houses along the opposite side of the river reachable by 4 rope bridges.
valley view
valley view

Lookout Trail

- In town from the market building you walk 2 blocks to the hillside and a path signed Panoramic Lookout. It should actually be signed "One Thousand Steps Path" count them ! After 15 minutes you arrive at a shelter, where you can see another shelter more than twice as high on the hillside above. When you reach there you are at the top of the ridge above the valley. You can see there are trails leading either way along the ridgeway, but not often used as they a covered by fern. Up at top you can almost see the whole valley below. Although it's very high it didn't seem to be any cooler there as it's exposed to the complete sun.
valley view

Trekking

- I would have thought there are good opportunities for nature trekking in the area, but no trails are signposted yet .

- Following a forest trail there I almost trod on a 2m long thin viper.
snake
- It was just right there on the path and made no attempt to move. I really almost put my foot down on it, so I knew it was dangerous. I found out at Singapore Raffles Museum of Biodiversity, that the snake was the highly venomous Blue Coral Snake.


Sorry it's blurred it says it's colouring keeps large creatures (like me) from stepping on it. - If you have a 4 wheel drive one road leads across a causeway then continues up hill for 5Km to the Taman Rusa (deer park) , then a couple of Km to a hotspring and then 7Km further to a waterfall.

Use To Conserve

- Since at one time the town had 30,00 inhabitants all around the town there are abandoned old wooden homes in various states of disrepair. The side of the valley next to the museum appears to have been the company management bungalow area. Unfortunately unlike the Chinese areas, where a large proportion of the houses are still used, here the impressive villas lie empty and deteriorating. Surely they can be put to good use ? So this valuable heritage can be used instead of lost.

- My own thoughts are it would make an excellent university campus. with plenty of unused houses and rooms around the town to accommodate students without having to build from scratch.

- At the very least the villas could be converted into a resort for weddings, courses and conferences.

Facilities

I wanted to stay, but it was Chinese New Year the Rest House was closed
tel 019 906 2193, 012 900 9622
- Hotel 09 5411 924, 019 998 1126

- The museums grounds are a good place for a picnic with a view, though of course there are 3 restaurants down by the entrance aswell as various others at the market and around town.

Location

- Sungai Lembing is at the end of a road 40 Km out of Kuantan. If you are coming from KL there is a shortcut so you don't have to come into Kuantan ; turn off 20Km before and it's another 20Km to Lembing.

- If you are coming from KL then I recommend stopping to eat in Maran

THE MARAN HOME TOWN CAF?
just behind the banks on the main road
Western and Chinese Food
09-477-3426, 019-913-9899

- maybe the owner Peter will treat you to a musical performance like he did for me.

- Minna says the Gua Charas Cave and limestone massif at Pancing (Panching) 18Km before you reach Sungai Lembing is even better than Batu Caves



Book : Pai Naa (Refugee from the Japanese)
- One of the things they display in the museum is a couple of pages from the book by the manager's sister about how they spent WW2 with the communists hiding in the mountains from the Japanese.
title : Refugee from the Japanese - THATCHER, DOROTHY, 1921-Previously published as: Pai Naa - I see another tourist really liked it: http://lbugnion.blogspot.com/2006/08/book-pai-naa-story-of-nona-baker.html

- From internet book seller : THATCHER, DOROTHY, 1921- Refugee from the Japanese Kuala Lumpur: Malaysian Branch Of The Royal Asiatic Society, 1993. Paperback. 14 x 22 cm.; pg. xii, 184; Monographs of the Malaysian Branch, Royal Asiatic Society No. 24. Previously published as: Pai Naa, the story of Nona Baker. London, Constable, 1959. Illustrations. "This book does two things. It tells the story of the survival against fantastic odds of a very brave and remarkable woman (the Pai Naa--'White Nona'--of the title); and it gives a unique picture of the Chinese Communist guerrillas who operated in Malaya during World War II. Nona Baker went out to Malaya from her father's vicarage to keep house for her brother, Vincent, who was general manager of the largest tin mine in the world. In 1941 the Japanese swept down the Malay Peninsula; and the brother and sister took refuge in the jungle..." ISBN 9679948048. Fine with no dust jacket.

In Singapore National Library in Lee Kong Chian ref library I found a copy dewy 940.548141 and in NUS I found both versions 1959, 1993 copies DS596.4 Tha

- Yes it really is an excellent book, as it gives an insight of Malaya before the war and the Communist Guerillas. For me as an English person it provides a very accessible way into understanding the history of Malaysia before independence, though maybe not for ethnic Malays as there are few mentions of them apart from a jolly fat sultan and his beautiful wife. It's clear that everybody speaks Malays, but it's just that almost all the mine workers and guerrillas are Chinese.

- It portrays a Malaya where everyone has so much faith in the British as they have brought peace and prosperity and it's a devastating surprise to everyone that they weren't able to prevent the Japanese invasion nor easily get rid of them. It's a real turning point in peoples thinking and many people are driven into supporting the communists who existed as a very minor movement for the 10 years before the war, but who are thrust to the fore as they are the only only opposition to the Japanese who are brutalising the Chinese in retribution for defeats in China and whose harsh governance takes it's toll on the other races. It seems many Malays have been half bought off with the promise of "Asia for Asians" One surprising thing is most people who end up living in the communist camps don’t support the ideology, but find themselves brought together as the communists are the only force fighting the Japanese. There appear to be 2 editions of the book one in 1959, and one in 1993 which are almost the same except the 1993 one has a couple more photos and the introduction has been changed from the better original one page introduction

- It's written by the professional writer Dorothy Thatcher. I don't know why they don't list it as being authored by Nona Baker as it's clearly her Biography and written in first person.

- Some surprising things we learn - Her brother Vin who had been managing the mine for 30 years was told before the war that
- 1. In event of invasion Malaya would not be defended , but instead there would be a retreat to Singapore.
- 2. British forces were under armed and the navy weak

- However Vin thought Japanese were weak, and they'd only need to wait in Jungle 6 weeks or maybe 6 months.

- What I recently learnt in Singapore was that when the British commander went to negotiate with the invading Japanese, because he was almost out of bullets, that the Japanese were as low on supplies and may well have retreated if the British had not surrendered.

Episodes in the book

  • arrival
  • organising large parties for the Sultan's visits
  • the evacuation
  • ordered to flood the mine
  • hiding out
  • Cheng Kam trusted helper
  • old men said British had brought peace and prosperity to Malaya and were certain of Britain's might
  • 17 Feb Vin destroyed by news Singapore had fallen
  • The Japanese commanders lived in Sungai Lembing like lords
  • she says many animals had been wiped out in 1926 floods
  • practicing suicide in case discovered
  • respected the communists, but knew many that many were not truly communists
  • When Russia joined war communists had been released from Singapore prison.
  • Vin got malaria for months, eventually got quinine
  • Feb 43 a gambler threatened to expose them to the Japanese so they had to hand him all their money and flee to the communists camp.
  • The communists all called themselves "Lao" which means old and respected
  • One leader Lao Liu was an agitator Vin had once faced down. (She claims since he took care of all his workers they respected him and wouldn't join communist strikes)
  • Eating dog meat
  • Because of the many Chinese languages the communists used Mandarin as a Lingua Franca
  • The Japanese had made some kind of deal with the Indian soldiers so always sent them to search for the communists. They used the paths and made a lot of noise so they were usually unsuccessful
  • She references another book "The Jungle is Neutral" denying what it says about her being a heroine
  • said Lao Lee was OK, Lau Chuang bad and Lao Fong the very nasty leader
  • The communists were holding and protecting them a a kind of hold over the workers who respected them
  • Lao Fong regarded them as "capitalist pigs" and ordered camp members to shun them
  • he was then sacked when they got really sick
  • By Feb 1944 Japanese changed tactics using woodcutters and Orang Asli instead of Indian soldiers so were able to stage some large successful attacks
  • She has maggot infested wounds
  • The lack of medicine leaves Vin dead
  • She begins to work on the communist newspaper
  • A shocking scene when a small boy grasses on old men who he saw secretly eating pig and the communists tortured them to death
  • sindei riau ?
  • June 44 hear Germany has been defeated
  • Communists viciousness once again revealed as they capture an Indian and since he refuses to join the communists they have a young boy soldier bayonet him to death publicly.
  • Kam now has to come and hide out, because he's wanted by the Japanese for helping too many people, but he dies as soon as he hears Vin is dead.
  • September 1945 back she is allowed to go down to Kuantan as the war is over.
  • She is surprised that the communists agree to hand her over to the British Force 136
  • Meanwhile the communists begin killing collaborators
  • She goes back to the UK seemingly trying to forget her Malaysia experiences until asked to write the book in 1958
  • she dies in the 1990s

Sungai Lembing map
I would say the map is entirely out of scale on the righthand side

This interesting trekking site has more photos malaysiatrekking.blogspot.com
- my slightly different original notes

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