PC373 Traveling North, Sabah pictures are clickable to enlarge

Wed : Travel North
The idea was to travel north & stay in a long house, but we changed for 2 reasons. I wanted to stay at a real longhouse resort not a longhouse tourist resort, but I read that natives were sick of people turning up in there houses not knowing the customs, and when we phoned the numbers in the homestay book we seemed to be talking to a travel agent in KL. (also instead of including all religions every family in the homestay book seemed to be Muslim) So Selva suggested we drive north then back south to stay at mount Kinabalu so he could get back to KK on Thursday.
We stopped off at a stilts village

stilts village + Mount Kina balu in the background.


stilt_village


Thursday : Visit Mount Kinabalu
Then we stopped off at a newish pagoda tower.


Selva at the pagoda

Next we stopped off at Belud a market town for lunch. I saw a couple of grandmothers dressed in tribal clothes and this was in fact the only time I saw people wearing traditional clothing in Sabah. It was much less traditional that I had expected.

The road was not bad, we came past many rice fields. We didn't have enough time to get to Kudat instead we stopped for coffee in the service town of Marudu. Joe Kidd's wife says the villages are interesting there, but difficult to access without a friend.

Thursday : Drive Towards Mount Kinabalu
So we turned around heading back south and turning towards Kundsang the access town for Mount Kinabalu. The Mountain was always visible on the drive getting bigger and bigger. It's different from other mounts cos it's mostly rock with few trees; that's why it's got good views when one climbs it.

Mount Kinabalu from a viewpoint on the way

We checked the Rose Lodge, but it lacked atmosphere. So we went to check a couple of other places. We ended up at a Lodge outside the park gates. Selva was miffed they didn't have hot showers.

We went into Kundusang for dinner, but it was like a ghost town.

Mount Kinabalu Scam ??
You are told that climbing MK takes 2 days : 1 to walk to the lodge 2. then you climb up to see sunrise on the second day. The thing is this creates a bottleneck as there are only so many beds at the resthouse. Other tourists told me that it's booked up for 3 months ahead. So what people often do is book with a tour company for 400-500 and get a bed. Yet when you arrive at the reshouse it's not really full. So you can always get a "cancellation". Seems to me the tour companies are deliberately booking up the resthouse.

We met some English boys they told us "yes no problem in getting up and down in one day", you don't need to sleep in the resthouse at all They said that took them 3.5 hours to get up and 3 hours to get down. They said they took the 7am bus to the entrance then it's a 9Km walk to the summit. Other people didn't believe this, but I do. It is a steady walk and the record is 2.40 minutes up and down. This way appeals to me.
1. I don't want to get up at 1am to start walking with a crowd just to see a stupid sunrise, and there might be cloud anyway.
2. If you do it in one day then you only need a small bag.
3. you don't have to book the expensive hostel.
OK you run the risk of having to walk back without summiting if it rains in the morning and the resthouse has no beds

Thursday : Decided not to visit Mount Kinabalu

As it was I didn't go up.
1. it wasn't practical I would have to have left Selva on Thursday morning.
2.The costs add up 15Rm conservation fee, 150Rm foreiegner entrance change, 25Rm Insurance, another 50-150Rm for a guide/safety man. I don't mind paying something small, but I have climbed plenty of other mountains before. That's the best part of $80US never mind paying $20US for a hostel bed when you get up at 1am. What's the point in that ?
3. As a small protest against foreigner fees
4. I've done similar before


me and Mount Kinabalu

Thursday : Visit Mount Kinabalu
So we had breakfast and when the park office was open we drove in and paid our money and went round the information center. Then we went on a guided walk with a park ranger which was OK. One of the park workers told us she had had to convert to Islam to get this government job.

We drove 5Km further into the park to the entrance gate for the walk. I took these photos and a video of mountainview

mount_kinabalu2


mount_kinabalu3


stew_mount_kinabalu

Thursday : Driving on
Selva wanted to take the same paved road back to KK, but I leant on him to go the other way as 1. I hate taking the same road twice instead of seeing another view. 2. We would pass nearby the town of Kisingau where Chai is teacher, so I could stop off to meet stay with him.

So we went down to lunch at Ranau. Another not intersting service town. And then took the road back to KK. This road is not so bad, as they are halfway through turning it into a full highway, but Selva hated it. We reached the Crocker Range over which is the sea. At Tabanau on the we stopped for coffee then Selva headed back over the other side of the range and into KK. I'm sorry that the road was a bit rain damaged, but he was back in KK in 90 mins washing the dirt off the car.


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