513t Tura13-15/05/09
Tura - not much info
- Tura seems to be a state secret there is not much on Indiamike or Lonely Planet Thorntree nor any real CS members

- Information is difficult to get and is often incorrect see my notes below

Wed- The normal transport mess
- It should have been a long relaxing journey, but I ended up with almost no sleep cos of the The normal transport mess. At one time I was on one bus, my bag on another and my real seat on another.

- At Polo Ground Terminal : there were 4 buses leaving at the same time. My ticket has a bus number so I got on that bus. 2 buses had the same number so 10 minutes after leaving someone gets on the bus with my ticket number. So they made me get off. My real bus was in front there was another bus, but it had broken down.. So that was a 1 hour stressful wait. At 9pm reststop I managed to catchup with my correct bus... At 1am when the drivers had finished their break I got my bag back.

- 4.30am arrive in rainy Tura pretty stressed out.. 7am found hotel.

Wed : Explore
- Set off to find the Tourist office and Garo Museum - the normal run around - Got to TV Tower but tourist info 2Km back towards town -
- The tourist office had almost no info of course.

- Then 5Km along another road to Museum, but when I eventually arrived they said it's moved to TV Tower. Found it's "temporarily" at The DC Office until a museum is built. So it's actually only 1.5Km past the tourist info office and before The Stadium or TV tower.

- The Garo Museum was pretty good ... I was the 3rd person to visit in the last 4 months.

- I came back to town and wondered around. Like most places in India there seems to be no planning strategy so it's a mess rather than having any nice kind of character. In the centre there's a supermarket in the Indian sense of the word a big building which houses an indoor market, which may or may not sell food.

Wed- Meeting the Anglo-Indians

- I saw what I thought were other tourists, turned out Sherleen and her son are actually Anglo-Indians. She is Khasi mostly while her husband Bruce is from Jamshedpur. They came here 20 years ago with their business partner Tyrone (married to a Garo lady) and they started a school. Later I found their small school has become pretty big with 550 pupils. Sherlyeen also runs a home bakery business.

- After coffee we went down to a 3 day wake of a man also from an Anglo Indian family.

- They said, "You have to be careful about the mosquitoes, there's a lot of malaria here", You what nobody said anything before, Malaria is a bloody serious thing, it kills people

- "So if you feel drowsey or feverish get treatment". Again, I'm travelling in a tropics of course I often feel tired and feverish.

- So Thursday morning that was the first job, to check the real situation ... As ever the first places gave bad info. But from the Malaria Control office I got the key facts.
- 1. It's common especially in the villages and 5% of villages might be carrying.
- 2. It's chloroquine resistant so he doesn't recommend prophalactic medicine, just avoid getting bitten.
- 3. Middle class people don't die from it treatment is very effective. 2008 24K cases meant 31 deaths, 2007 not so different.

- So OK, but 1-5am the hotel fans stop for load shedding then I always get bitten

- Thu Tura Peak-
- Reassured aboutt Malaria I had 2 plans - Go up Tura Peak and visit Pelga falls about 7Km out of town.

- from the park I followed concrete steps up and then down slightly into a ravine. It's all houses, but you don't cross the river ... Look for plain iron poles which mark the run. It becomes a clear narrow track going up through the forest. I just always followed the steepest way.

- I came around a corner and surprised a big snake, its head was chunky and as big as my fist. It hissed at me and slithered off after a minute. After 1.5 hours I was nearly at the top. There was a gap in the trees, but rain was due and there wasn't much of a view, but seemed most of the land below was flat.

- The path split, with a steep switchback going to the bungalow, but I took the gradual path west coming up to the ridge. There were occasion al elephant prints .. Probably 1 small elephant weeks ago. 200m later it hit the ridge path at a National Park Sign. 15 minutes along west but nothing. Then East from junction coming to bungalow in 10 minutes. Gazebo, bungalow all broken. 5 minutes east a little view.

- Took the 100m path down to the main path ... Turned and suddenly Fresh wet Elephant poo. The elephants are dangerous so I kept going. There were 3 piles of fist size light brown straw. ..Maybe working elephant ? I didn't see a lot of prints so I guess it was alone.. Strange... People don't believe but what other explanation ?

- Was down by 2pm No forest office at the park.

- Thu- Pelga Dare waterfall
- Someone had told me Pelga was to the south so when the people at the Roads Dept said it was at TV tower I didn't believe them. Someone else said south, most didn't know. Then someone more certain said 2Km past TV Tower. So I went past TV Tower to where the bus finishes at Diragrah. Autos wanted 150Rp so I started walking. A retired banker gave me a 2Km ride, but the locals said it as 3Km further and since it was already 4pm I ran. The road became earth and rain was coming, village after 2Km, then road continued down down towards the river.

- I arrived at 4.30pm ... Yes it's an OK picnic spot, but hardly worth the trouble.The bamboo bridge is really a metal rope bridge covered in bamboo and the waterfall isn't that great.

- PHOTOS WHEN I RECOVER IT FROM THE CORRUPT SD CARD

The heavy rain started. The best thing was there were cashew farms with ripe fruit. For me it's delicious I stole 3 then went to try to buy more ... But it was difficult as no one likes to eat cashew fruit they like the nut, which I don't.

- Still running I got a ride back all the way to town with an ambulance. Today India hadn't beaten me, I had beaten it and achieved my goals. .... But of course I'd overdone it and my left hamstring made me hobble. (this is normal, as after a lot of activity my muscles get igger faster than my tendons can stretch... The next days sometimes felt like arthritis inside my knee, went away though.

- try to recover photos

- Fri - Internet work day - I slept till 10.30am - café, spicy food even though I said no chilli

- phoned Bruce at home. He invited me to visit his school on Saturday Went to find a reasonable cybercafe eventually found one opposite Tura Book Room, but it closes at 7pm.

Tura Background Info
Malaria - amber alert
- There is malaria, but today's treatments are so effective that you are unlikely to die. The normal prophalactic of chloroquine is no longer effective. last year 31 deaths from 24,000 positive blood tests

South East Map

Background -
- Tura seems to be a state secret there is not much on Indiamike or Lonely Planet Thorntree nor any real CS members

- Also the NEW District Planning map I got from Geographical Survey of India in Shillong is pretty useless - it seems very different from reality as it misses many roads and most placenames for tourist sites.

Info- my edits and corrections
- I got some Tura info from some online newspaper articles, but they are not so accurate - Google the original articles for more detail.

- Tura Peak
- Over looking Tura. 872m above sea level. A Tourist Bungalow, an Observatory and a Cinchona plantation are located at Tura Peak and its environs. -actually a ruin
A magnificent view of the lower Brahmaputra Valley as well as the golden yellow plains of Bangladesh is available all year round to viewers on Tura Peak. - view not that good
During the British regime, the Deputy Commissioner of Garo Hills, used to reside during summer, in a cottage located at the peak and commute down to Tura each day on elephant-back. - Untrue
- A decent foot track developed for the deputy commissioner's use now helps tourists and adventurers to reach Tura peak without difficulty. - Untrue - it's a pretty rough 2 hour walk so almost no tourists go

Nokrek - The highest point of the Garo Hills region of the State, Nokrek Peak stands fourteen hundred and twelve metres above sea level.

Arbella Peak -worth a visit ? A lofty blue hill with an elevation of nine hundred and ninety nine metres above sea level stands on the north-eastern flank of Tura. The hilly range on which it is located is known as Arbella Range and the peak as Arbella Peak. The drive-up to the peak passes through deeply forested glades, full of shrubs and orchids of unparalleled beauty. Wildfowl and pheasants of exciting plumage and colour abound, besides birds of all sizes and variety making the place an idyllic resort of natural joy. A small rest house built by the British Colonialist, a century ago, on the Arbella peak continues to provide visitors with the shelter from the elements.

don't miss Asananggre tourist info say there's nothing to see unless it's festival time

Rongbang Dare tiny waterfall -near Chinabat village to the right of the Tura-Asanangre-Williamnagar State highway.

Sasatgre - home of Garo culture ? - Located on the hilly crescent -like saddle, at the foot of the Nokrek peak, in the West Garo Hills district, Sasatgre village is accessible by a jeepable road from Oragitok village which lies on the Tura-Asanangre-Williamnagar State highway. The distinguishing feature of this village is that although all the houses are built in the typical Garo Pattern and design, they are spacious, airy, well-built and firm. The winds of development, change and prosperity have not changed the way of life of the Sasatgre villagers and they continue to be the repository of undiluted Garo custom, culture and convention

Inspection Bungalows + Rest Houses Barengapara Bhaitbari Damalgre Garobadha Hallidayganj Kherapara Phulbari Rongram Tikrikkilla

Info- my edits and corrections

2nd Article - Telegraph Tura Article

-The Imilchang Dare (dare means waterfalls in Garo) on Tura-Chokpot Road is worth visiting. The deep, wide pools at the bottom of the falls make an ideal picnic spot. 45Km ? other says : Breath taking waterfall with a deep, wide pool at the bottom of the fall, full of fish of varied size and colour, besides being an ideal picnic spot.

Chibragre Picnicground Around 9km from Tura on the Tura-Guwahati Road is Chibragre, a popular place among picnickers with its lush green surroundings and breathtaking beauty. This is the confluence of two rivers - the Ganol and Rongram. The traditional hanging bridge made of bamboo over the Ganol lures many picnickers. Broken - They don't mention the Eco park at 8Km, the turnoff for Chibragre is at 9Km then 2Km

Garo Museum Those of you who want to know more about the history and culture of the Garos can take a trip to the museum, which is on the Meghalaya Board Of Secondary Education campus. Moved to DC office 300m before TV tower

Garo cuisine : You can sample nakham bitchi (spicy dry fish soup), do pura, which is a preparation of chicken without oil with lots of ginger and rice flour and do kapa, another chicken delicacy. There are a lot of eateries at Ringre, where you will get authentic Garo food.

- 3rd Article Culture The A·chik are among the few remaining matrilineal societies in the world implying that clan lineage derives from individuals take their clan titles from their mother to offspring. Unlike the 'conventional' male-dominated lineage norm, it is the youngest daughter or the nokna who carries forward the clan name and property.
- Traditionally, sons would leave home at adolescence, and would be schooled in the art of warfare, protocol and such matters at the village bachelors' dormitory - the nokpante. They would leave the nokpante only upon taking a wife and were then required to move into the bride's home.

Eats: Foodies can try out traditional Garo delicacies: like wak | do·o brenga - diced pork or chicken char-grilled in a section of tender bamboo, we·tepa minnow char-grilled in plantain leaf, wak/do·o kapa - pork or chicken cooked with ginger and green chilli in cooking soda, gominda wak - pumpkin pork etc.
- The more exotic fare can include entrails, tripe, assorted smoked meat and is highly recommended for the adventurous

Rongbang Dare: These waterfalls in East Garo hills are simply spectacular and make a wonderful picnic spot with a great wade pool.

Emangre :- This is the only village where the traditional wood carving on the posts and beams of the nokpante - the bachelor's Dormitory still survive.

Dombe Wari: These waterfalls in South Garo hills are not easily accessible. The trek to these waterfalls from the nearest motorable village Emanasak will take you about 4 hours. 3 kms from Eman Asakgre there is a legendary lake on top of the hill believed to have been created by a merman when the eloped away with a beautiful wife of one boastful man. It is believed that Dombe the beautiful woman still lives in the underground water Kingdom.
- Ask your guide about the beautiful folklore that tells you about how this waterfalls was formed.

Pelga Falls: A definite 'must-see' and among the most beautiful waterfalls of the Garo Hills; just located at the distance of 7 kms from Tura has become increasingly hot spot for anglers and picnickers in recent years. A typical traditional Garo bamboo bridge constructed over Ganol river is another added attraction. Metal rope bridge now

- Just past the Sherwood school I saw there is another Forest park and zoo and a treehouse 1 Km past that.

<-- PREVIOUS PC HOME INDIA 2009 Index TRAVEL INDEX
note/comments
NEXT -->